Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
